Do witches exist? What about their magic powers and their spells?    The truth is only known to history, but there is a place in Spain that sheds some light on the mystery. Virtually on the border with France, the village of Zugarramurdi in Navarre (in the north of the peninsula) has been witness to one of the most enigmatic chapters of the past.    The story says that the enormous caves around the village were the scene of witchcraft meetings during the 17th century. People talk of rituals in which men and women lit bonfires, danced and drank drinks with hallucinogenic effects. These meetings took the name of Akelarres (‘aker’ =

Oñati is very noble, loyal and magnificent as the titles say. What they do not say is that it is amazing. It is known as the Basque Toledo, a nickname the painter Ignacio Zuloaga used to refer to the town. But it also has something of Oxford. This villa in Guipuzcoa, turned into a county, hosted the first University of the Basque Country during the Renaissance. The truth is that its medieval centre has its own personality. The numerous churches, monuments and civil constructions fit perfectly into a unique style puzzle. Its university is Renaissance, its monastery, Bidaurreta, is Elizabethan Gothic and its council building is Baroque. In this heterogeneous but harmonious whole