The American chef Dan Barber tells anyone who wants to listen about his love story with an Andalusian bass with tight flesh and silver scales. This was his second dish in a restaurant in the south of Spain and he immediately wanted to know where such a marvel had come from. They told him that his loved one came from Veta La Palma, a fish farm just a few kilometres from the Guadalquivir river mouth in the province of Seville, which works in favour of and not against nature; so much so that in its 25 years of life it has quadrupled the bird population in its surroundings from some 20,000 counted in the nineties to more than 100,000 today, peaking at 600,000 in October and Novembe