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The elevator and the castle
Opposite the Postiguet beach in Alicante is a cave that penetrates the depths of Mount Benacantil. It is not a cave to use, rather it is a narrow corridor cut into the rock. Finally there is an elevator that leads us to other times. At the other end of the lift, 165 meters up, stands the castle of Santa Barbara, a rocky fortress overlooking the bay of Alicante. 'Impregnable' is perhaps the word most commonly used to describe it. But the castle has been the scene of many battles that have not always ended well for its defenders. This bloody past together with its use more as a prison than a palace has fuelled its fame as an enchanted castle. Many have been the lovers of the oc -
In Pan's footsteps
Some years ago, the people of San Rafael in Segovia saw how the modest clothing and military uniforms of the post war returned to their small town for several weeks. At that time, the young Ofelia escaped through the woods to let her imagination race while hiding from Carmen, her sick mother, and Vidal, her stepfather, a ruthless Francoist captain. There she plunged into the pines to meet Pan, a fantastic creature that led her in a parallel world in which she had to prove her bravery as a princess. These events occurred at the site located in the Sierra de Guadarrama, because this was the place was chosen by the Mexican director, Guillermo del Toro, as the stage for the mov -
The small Compostela
To reach Villafranca del Bierzo you have to follow a fence about two kilometres and continue to gradually venture into the past. This is a village of just 4,000 inhabitants that seems straight out of the Middle Ages, full of green walks and vertical relief. On your arrival, the first thing you see is the castle, known as the Palace of the Marquises of Villafranca, which to date is still inhabited. Among the vineyards, this dilapidated building from the sixteenth century, a residence occupied by these nobles until the seventeenth century, and later used as a prison. It is perhaps one of the most representative monuments of the character of a place that seems to resist change over ti -
Treasure white in the Serra de Tramuntana
Among its virtues, the landscape of the largest of the Balearic Islands hides a corner that seems designed for poets, musicians and artisans. On the northwest coast of Majorca, Serra de Tramuntana rises imposingly above the Mediterranean, making a natural barrier for the island against the northern winds, winds that formerly came laden with snow. For centuries, this idyllic spot was a huge ice factory and important economic activity for its inhabitants. In spring, when the last snowfall ceased, the 'nevaters' went up to the highest areas of the mountain, about 900 meters above sea level, to collect and store what the clouds had left during the winter. Armed with shovels and b -
Bibs for adults
An old Spanish proverb says "spring alters the blood." However, not only does it alter the blood, but also our diet. Spring is full of fruit and vegetables that give their best with the first rays of sun. One is the modest 'calçot', a type of fine onion with a delicate flavour. Eating it is a kind of ritual to start the spring in the warm areas surrounding the Ebro River as it passes through Catalonia. Beware, like every initiatory ritual, it has its rules: of course you can eat it in private but it certainly does not taste the same. Tradition has it that calçots should be eaten in the town square at a table with one’s neighbo -
The island within walking distance
Presiding the San Simon opening in the Vigo estuary, there is an island of the same name. Connected to its neighbour San Anton by a bridge, the two islands together measure 250 metres wide and 84 long and, according to tradition, when the tide is very low, a brave man can walk without the water reaching his neck to this piece of the history of Galicia. A Cultural Asset since 1999, San Simon’s character made the island a place not much recommended for a lot of recent history. Although until the 19th century several monastic orders inhabited the island, which was the scene of battles between the Portuguese and the Spanish, it was from 1838 when San Simon entered contem -
There were once some hanging houses...
The city of Cuenca is high. Very high. At more than 900 metres above ground level, its profile is a block that rises above the ground. Marked by incredible buildings that had the old city declared a World Heritage Site in 1996, among all of the buildings the hanging houses stand out for their originality and mystery as structures built on a cliff that make one feel dizzy by just looking at them. Although it is said that in times past much of the cliff was full of this type of construction, now only three survivors still defy gravity every day. With an uncertain origin in the centuries of the Reconquest of the Iberian Peninsula, it is not known whether they are Arab or Christian but i -
The Kings "roscón"
The Roscón de Reyes is a donut-shaped bun which is never missing from the Spanish tables on January 6, the Epiphany. It is started in the morning with a cup of hot chocolate or coffee, and continues throughout the day. This bun with milk, flour, sugar, eggs and orange blossom water can be served filled with whipped cream, vanilla cream, truffles, marzipan and chocolate, and usually has sugar, candied fruits and nuts on top. The special thing about this dessert is that hidden inside there is a figurine and a dry bean: he who finds the figurine in his piece of roulade will be lucky for the whole year, he who finds the bean, however, will have to pay for the roulade. Th -
Wineries in the rocks of Borja
Borja is a small town in the province of Zaragoza with a huge wine tradition. The difference with other areas of vineyards lies in the peculiarity of its first winery, built centuries ago in the rock of the hills. 19th-century Borjan traders served from within the mountain and their offices were converted over time into family residences and holiday homes. In any case, wine remains a benchmark in the Campo de Borja region and the Moncayo, its neighbour. It is true that a few months ago the region’s, and the world’s, attention was drawn to the controversial restoration of the church’s Ecce Homo by a lady with the priest’s agreement. However, the world -
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Mahon and mayonnaise
Take oil, egg yolks, vinegar and salt. Break the eggs and place the yolks in a bowl, add a little vinegar and salt. Proceed to beat well, steadily, and when you see that it is stiffening, pour the oil in a very thin jet to produce the emulsion and the mayonnaise. This is the simple recipe for the manual preparation of one of the sauces most used in the world and whose origin has been a major headache for scholars of these things since the early twentieth century. The prevailing theory on the origin of mayonnaise has one cardinal year: 1756. At that time France invades the port of Mahon, on Minorca, and the then Duke of Richilie, Louis François Armand du P -
Calella, a hymn to Havana
If there is a landmark event in the world of Habaneras, it is undoubtedly the Cantada d'Havaneres of Calella de Palafrugell. For 46 years, on the first Saturday of July, this small coastal village in the province of Gerona is adorned from top to bottom to pay tribute to a musical genre deeply rooted in the fishing villages along the Catalan coast. And if it is a tribute to a genre as strongly bound to the sea as the Habanera, the stage has to be consistent with the spirit and character of the sea. Port Bo beach, with its pristine white seafront buildings, arcades facing the sea, traditional fishing boats beached on the sand ... perfectly meets these requirements. And when the first no -
The cultural capital of the Principality
Asturias has a dichotomy: while Oviedo and its 225,391 inhabitants is the place where policy is made, Gijón, with 277,559 registered people, is the cultural capital of the Principality. Mining has been losing weight in the city’s economy and in its place, cultural events and festivals have invaded its every day. Rare is the week of the year when Gijón does not have a meeting, an event or an awards show to help attract fans of different arts to the city. The origin of this shift in how to feed the city can be traced to 1963. That year, the City of Gijón, along with the former Caja de Ahorros de Asturias, organized the International Competition of Childr -
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In Search of Don Quijote
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Books set in Barcelona
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BURIED BEAUTY OF NAVARRE
Navarre is a land of contained beauty. Its towering forests invite you to stroll and its Romanesque churches to, but they do not overwhelm the visitor. Its wonders are enjoyed with time and its sly beauty has to be discovered calmly. Four of these provincial wonders are protected from visitor's eyes, hiding buried, sunk under churches. These are the Romanesque crypts of Navarre, four of the eight in the whole peninsula. For a year the Baja Montaña association has organised a tour of these four milestones of Roman Navarre. "People already knew them, but missed a continuity, a structured route", they say from the association while recognizing that the number of vis -
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BILBAO, CULTURE THAT FEEDS
Does art have a flavour? In Bilbao, works of art and cuisine share the same house, maybe because they are both art. Painting and food. The first is presented in halls and the second is served in the cafeteria of the same museum. The Guggenheim asks on its web site what art tastes of. There are two answers. On the one hand they say that art tastes of crab, good cod, tuna belly or Bresse pigeon. These are some of the dishes served in the Nerua restaurant run by Josean Martínez Alija, which has been given a Michelin star. On the other hand, they say that at summer lunches and dinners art has a more informal flavour, though also one of haute cuisine, at the Bistró Guggenhe -
Adhoc, Vigo art
At number 9 of rúa Joaquín Loriga de Vigo, there is a space consisting of a ground floor and a basement. The decor changes every three months, mutating from painting the walls to strangers videos projected on white canvas, through paintings, sculptures and what they call 'performances'. For at the number 9 of Joaquín Loriga de Vigo there is Ad Hoc Gallery, with over 20 years behind it loaded with works of art. Inés Ramiro, its directress since 2000, explains that "the way to find artists from Vigo is the same as in other places." Albeit with dossiers sent by Internet or taken by hand by the gallery; by visiting fairs and participating in -
PALMA: SUN, BEACH ... AND ART
Despite being one of the most visited cities in Spain, Palma de Mallorca is still an unknown quantity to many tourists. Beyond its coves and crystal clear waters, this city has one of the richest and best cared for historical centres in Spain. There have been several architectural styles that have shaped the city, but there has certainly been one which has imposed: the Gothic. This style was used in the area beyond the time limits that corseted the rest of Europe. Here you can admire Gothic buildings built in the sixteenth century. The Cathedral and its famous rose window, nicknamed the Eye of the Gothic, are the most emblematic. Other examples are found in the market, numerous castles -