-
The elevator and the castle
Opposite the Postiguet beach in Alicante is a cave that penetrates the depths of Mount Benacantil. It is not a cave to use, rather it is a narrow corridor cut into the rock. Finally there is an elevator that leads us to other times. At the other end of the lift, 165 meters up, stands the castle of Santa Barbara, a rocky fortress overlooking the bay of Alicante. 'Impregnable' is perhaps the word most commonly used to describe it. But the castle has been the scene of many battles that have not always ended well for its defenders. This bloody past together with its use more as a prison than a palace has fuelled its fame as an enchanted castle. Many have been the lovers of the oc -
In Pan's footsteps
Some years ago, the people of San Rafael in Segovia saw how the modest clothing and military uniforms of the post war returned to their small town for several weeks. At that time, the young Ofelia escaped through the woods to let her imagination race while hiding from Carmen, her sick mother, and Vidal, her stepfather, a ruthless Francoist captain. There she plunged into the pines to meet Pan, a fantastic creature that led her in a parallel world in which she had to prove her bravery as a princess. These events occurred at the site located in the Sierra de Guadarrama, because this was the place was chosen by the Mexican director, Guillermo del Toro, as the stage for the mov -
The Picos de Europa mountains to the sea
They occupy a total area of 64,660 hectares with heights exceeding 2,500 meters and their northernmost point hardly 15 kilometres from the sea. The Picos de Europa, the most widely visited national park in Spain after the Teide National Park, are true giants just a step away from the coast. When one considers visiting these high rocky mountains covered with snow that lasts almost into the summer, people usually think of their popular cable car, climbing or mountaineering, but not of enjoying the sand, sun and the crystal clear water of the sea. However, this area of the Bay of Biscay governed by the great peaks offers travellers the chance to explore the coast on foot or by -
-
-
-
BURIED BEAUTY OF NAVARRE
Navarre is a land of contained beauty. Its towering forests invite you to stroll and its Romanesque churches to, but they do not overwhelm the visitor. Its wonders are enjoyed with time and its sly beauty has to be discovered calmly. Four of these provincial wonders are protected from visitor's eyes, hiding buried, sunk under churches. These are the Romanesque crypts of Navarre, four of the eight in the whole peninsula. For a year the Baja Montaña association has organised a tour of these four milestones of Roman Navarre. "People already knew them, but missed a continuity, a structured route", they say from the association while recognizing that the number of vis -
-
-
The best views from one’s car
Can a road be nice? Maybe a road in itself cannot, but surroundings most certainly can be. And we are not talking about a lost highway, but rather a dual carriageway. It is convenient, fast, quiet and also has a superb landscape. If you travel by road between Pamplona and San Sebastian you probably know what I mean. This is the A-15, the Leitzaran, that runs from Navarre into the Basque Country. Just before the border between the two regions, shortly after leaving Pamplona, we come to Irurzun. Here the mountains start above the Larraun valley, just south of the stone Dos Hermanas that the river has carved over the centuries. The road runs along a corridor flanked by the Gaztelu an -
-
The Médulas: Mars, Leon province
Rarely do humans modify nature to get something more beautiful than there was before. But this is something that has happened in this place used by the ancient Romans. "These Romans are crazy", a phrase made popular by Uderzo and Goscinny in their great Asterix comics is funny, but not too close to reality. Otherwise, if the Romans were crazy, what great madness! When they reached the Médulas, in the province of León in northern Spain, they found that its mountains hid the most precious of treasures of the time: gold. Unqualified but skilful engineers, the Romans managed to pass litres and litres of water from the river inside Cape mountains, piercing them to provide them with t -
-
By bicycle to La Albufera
Just a few kilometres from the city of Valencia, a unique natural paradise known as La Albufera is the frame for one of the most beautiful sunsets on the Mediterranean. One of the best ways to cross its eight kilometres is by bike. The trip may seem long but, if done on a 0% incline and good rural roads, with the comfort of the mild climate of Valencia and the promise of a swim at a semi-virgin beach at the end and one of the best paellas in the world, it becomes short. The Albufera is a natural park that the Arabs called 'small sea', and were not misguided: it is a saltwater lake hardly one meter deep, connected to the sea at several points. The Arabs also introduced the most -
-
Routes of mystery: Zugarramurdi Caves, witchcraft and legend
Do witches exist? What about their magic powers and their spells? The truth is only known to history, but there is a place in Spain that sheds some light on the mystery. Virtually on the border with France, the village of Zugarramurdi in Navarre (in the north of the peninsula) has been witness to one of the most enigmatic chapters of the past. The story says that the enormous caves around the village were the scene of witchcraft meetings during the 17th century. People talk of rituals in which men and women lit bonfires, danced and drank drinks with hallucinogenic effects. These meetings took the name of Akelarres (‘aker’ = -
-
-
-
-
Camping with glamour
For those not accustomed to contact with nature and getting by with just what they need, camping may be the synonym of uncomfortable holidays. However, forget this image of camping because it is changing and now even the most delicate of tourists can feel at home in some of the most unspoilt corners of Spain. In Spain, the camping boom occurred in the 1970s largely because of the European tourists, who were much more accustomed to going around with their homes and camping where the fair winds blew. Much time has passed, and although the sector is still in good shape, many people who decide to spend their free time in a tent are more and more demanding. And this & -
-
-
-
The agreement between Picasso and an ancient tree
Horta de Sant Joan, a small town of 1,300 inhabitants in the south of the province of Tarragona, wouldn’t have the same historical value if two simple elements had not met there: a tree and a painter. The tree is called Lo Parot, no less than a two thousand year old tree with the record for longevity in the peninsula. The painter, a certain Pablo Picasso (1881-1973). The same painter who one day said, “Everything I know I learnt in Horta”. The olive tree was there when a young, 16-year old Picasso sick with scarlet fever came to this town in the Tierra Alta district, on the banks of the Ebro River. His great friend Manuel Pallarés, a natu