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The small Compostela
To reach Villafranca del Bierzo you have to follow a fence about two kilometres and continue to gradually venture into the past. This is a village of just 4,000 inhabitants that seems straight out of the Middle Ages, full of green walks and vertical relief. On your arrival, the first thing you see is the castle, known as the Palace of the Marquises of Villafranca, which to date is still inhabited. Among the vineyards, this dilapidated building from the sixteenth century, a residence occupied by these nobles until the seventeenth century, and later used as a prison. It is perhaps one of the most representative monuments of the character of a place that seems to resist change over ti -
The place where a virgin emerges from the waters
In Asturias they like to repeat that their land is a natural paradise. One example that works better than any slogan is that of the views that can be enjoyed at the lakes that are part of the park of Covadonga, where peace reigns before an omnipresent virgin, submerged under the water. Let time stop, let’s allow the roundness of the landscape makes us feel somewhat smaller before the majesty of the Picos de Europa. From the Basilica de la Virgen as the park is named, a climb of about fourteen kilometres begins along a winding road leading to the Enol and La Ercina lakes. A third lagoon, El Bricial, forms when the snows melt. This unit, which forms part of the Picos de Europa -
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Looking for the Lost Mountain
Life ends at 2,700 metres, or so it seems. Gone are the beech, pine and fir and almost all green vegetation. It is when you overcome this barrier when you can admire the Ordesa National Park and Monte Perdido (Lost Mountain) in all their grandeur in the Pyrenees of Huesca. But the way here starts much earlier, and much lower. The route begins at the meadow. From here there is three-hour walk through the valley, climbing approximately 500 meters. An easy path for anyone with comfortable shoes and a light backpack. Thick forests line the river, the remains of the quaternary glacier gave this so characteristic 'U' form left by the action of ice on the rocks. At the end of the -
Routes of mystery: Zugarramurdi Caves, witchcraft and legend
Do witches exist? What about their magic powers and their spells? The truth is only known to history, but there is a place in Spain that sheds some light on the mystery. Virtually on the border with France, the village of Zugarramurdi in Navarre (in the north of the peninsula) has been witness to one of the most enigmatic chapters of the past. The story says that the enormous caves around the village were the scene of witchcraft meetings during the 17th century. People talk of rituals in which men and women lit bonfires, danced and drank drinks with hallucinogenic effects. These meetings took the name of Akelarres (‘aker’ = -
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Camping with glamour
For those not accustomed to contact with nature and getting by with just what they need, camping may be the synonym of uncomfortable holidays. However, forget this image of camping because it is changing and now even the most delicate of tourists can feel at home in some of the most unspoilt corners of Spain. In Spain, the camping boom occurred in the 1970s largely because of the European tourists, who were much more accustomed to going around with their homes and camping where the fair winds blew. Much time has passed, and although the sector is still in good shape, many people who decide to spend their free time in a tent are more and more demanding. And this & -
Jabugo ham and its 20 flavours
They are not an actress’s or a model’s, nor a footballer’s. The most sought-after legs in Spain are those of salted pork, those universally known as ham, and of the numerous varieties found around Spain the most prestigious is Jabugo ham, a reference for the world’s gourmets. Those in the know say that the black pig that produces them is a direct descendent of the prehistoric wild boar and that the Romans were the first to praise its persistent, unmistakeable flavour. Whatever the case, Jabugo receives its name from the city of Huelva, which is the centre of its production, although it would be more suitable to talk about the Jamón -
Un chapuzón en la Garganta de los Infiernos, el paisaje que moldeó el agua
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Santillana, the city of the three lies
They call it the city of the three lies because Santillana del Mar is neither a saint, nor flat, nor is by the sea. What Santillana (in Cantabria) does have is an admirable medieval historical quarter raised between cobbled streets and the “Sistine chapel” of quaternary art. This is the name given to Altamira Cave, one of the most important remains of rupestrian art on the planet. Declared Heritage of Mankind and defined as the most extraordinary representation of Palaeolithic art, the dome of the cave represents animals and figures of hunters whose impact has reached the most contemporary art. The philosopher and Spanish writer Mig -
The agreement between Picasso and an ancient tree
Horta de Sant Joan, a small town of 1,300 inhabitants in the south of the province of Tarragona, wouldn’t have the same historical value if two simple elements had not met there: a tree and a painter. The tree is called Lo Parot, no less than a two thousand year old tree with the record for longevity in the peninsula. The painter, a certain Pablo Picasso (1881-1973). The same painter who one day said, “Everything I know I learnt in Horta”. The olive tree was there when a young, 16-year old Picasso sick with scarlet fever came to this town in the Tierra Alta district, on the banks of the Ebro River. His great friend Manuel Pallarés, a natu -
The unending path of the Vía de la Plata
The so-called Vía de la Plata connects the town of Mérida, in the province of Extremadura in the south of Spain, with the town of Astorga, in the northern province of León. It is said that it was habitually used by the animals that left their warm lands in the summer to go to the cool pastures of the north and which returned for the winter to avoid the cold. Then came the mysterious Tartessos; Phoenicians in origin, on the Vía de la Plata they transported the tin from the rich quarries of León to the south. But those to whom we owe most for the path’s high degree of preservation are the Romans. Modern-day Méri -
Atapuerca or how to be a caveman
“Atapuerca? Oh yes, that village where so many old people live”. The joke, a classic in Burgos, the provincial capital closest to the most important archaeological and paleontological site in the world in the north of Castile, is justified with a single figure: the 1.2 million years of the remains of its first inhabitants, the oldest Europeans we yet know of. Their names and surnames? Homo antecessor, Homo heidelbergensis and Homo sapiens. As in any good village, the villagers’ nicknames are everywhere: Miguelón‘s skull (in honour of the five times champion of the Tour de France Miguel Induráin) and Elvis the pelvis (fr -
La Alcarria: Honey and literature
Just a few kilometres from Madrid in the province of Guadalajara is the region of La Alcarria. What you have closest is often most unknown to you and the Spanish capital’s inhabitants hardly knew of the existence of this place so nearby until in 1948, the Nobel Prize-winning writer, Camilo José Cela, wrote his ‘Journey to the Alcarria’ undoubtedly the best known guide of Spanish literature. Cela discovered the region on foot. The book, which at the time cost 65 pesetas (less than half a euro today) and was illustrated with photographs by Karl Wlasak, was a true best seller and soon became one of the must-reads on the school curricul -
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Canyoning in the Escuaín gully
Canyoning is an adventure sport done in the canyons or gullies of a river. The first place where the sport was done in Spain was the Escuaín gully, in Aragon, and the first person who did it was the Frenchman Lucien Briet in 1903. In his book of memoirs, this precursor from beyond the Pyrenees describes the beauty of the gully as “a formidable joint (fracture in the rocks) open in the mountains and worthy of serious study by those who have followed the canyons of some rivers”. This sport, with no more rules than safety above all, consists of descending the head of a river, normally walking with water up to your ankles and finding falls on the w -
Frías, a proud city
Frías (Burgos) has reasons to be proud. With hardly 275 inhabitants, it is the smallest city in Spain. Standing at the top of a promontory with a bird’s eye view of the crossroads between Burgos, Cantabria and the Basque Country, it guarantees visitors a unique experience, for Frías is a time machine. Strolling in its streets we find ourselves travelling to a past replete with titles, honours and battles that might be longed after by cities of greater fame, size and presence in the travel books; and talking to its citizens gives us the chance to learn from them how to face the future with the same solidity as characterises its walls. From its -
The best nibbles from El Bierzo
Wines, fruit in syrup or wine, honey… Between León and Galicia, the region of el Bierzo hides a singular gastronomic treasure. This district of the León region in the Sil river valley conceals a singular gastronomic treasure, and its inhabitants do not hesitate to promote their products whenever they can. And not just this; if the area stands out for something, it is its wine production. In just ten years, between 1990 and 2000, wine production passed from over half a million bottles to almost six and a half million, according to data from the El Bierzo Denomination of Origin Regulating Council. One of the most famo -
Elciego and Frank Ghery’s silver bodega
In Elciego, in La Rioja of Alava in the north of Spain, two artistic expressions collide: on the one side, the architecture of the American Frank Ghery, one of the most important living architects in the world; and on the other, the wines of the inheritors of el Marqués de Riscal, a firm that has been delighting palates since 1860. They say that to convince Gehry, a Pritzker Prizewinner (the Nobel prize for architecture) and author of the Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, to build some bodegas in such a picturesque place was not an easy job. The old architect was hesitant to accept the commission. However, the pro -
Minorca sweet and savoury
It is almost, almost a secret. The secret kept by the inhabitants of the island of Minorca and which they reveal only when they are insistently asked about their favourite place on the island. The Albufera de Es Grau is this place, natural surroundings where salt water and fresh water blend together and share their stage with dunes, thick forests and wetlands. Now a Nature Park and located in the north-west of Minorca, hardly two kilometres from Mahón, Albufera de Es Grau stretches far. There are three routes around the Minorcan albufera, all one hour-long; the first starts from the village of Es Grau whereas the other two leave the Rodríguez Femenías R -