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Bibs for adults
An old Spanish proverb says "spring alters the blood." However, not only does it alter the blood, but also our diet. Spring is full of fruit and vegetables that give their best with the first rays of sun. One is the modest 'calçot', a type of fine onion with a delicate flavour. Eating it is a kind of ritual to start the spring in the warm areas surrounding the Ebro River as it passes through Catalonia. Beware, like every initiatory ritual, it has its rules: of course you can eat it in private but it certainly does not taste the same. Tradition has it that calçots should be eaten in the town square at a table with one’s neighbo -
The turnip, a healthy delicacy.
‘Grelos’ are turnip shoots or tops and a staple food in Galician cuisine. A delicacy when they are tender, these leaves should be harvested just before flowering, when they present a smooth, shiny and spotless appearance. In Galicia, this activity is called 'grelar' and the best times to do it are in winter and early spring; although thanks to greenhouse techniques they can be found throughout the year. The origin of this plant is not very clear. Some place it in Asia, others in Europe, but the truth is that in Spain they were only consumed and cultivated for many years in Galicia. What I have discovered is that turnip greens can help prevent cancer. In the stud -
The Kings "roscón"
The Roscón de Reyes is a donut-shaped bun which is never missing from the Spanish tables on January 6, the Epiphany. It is started in the morning with a cup of hot chocolate or coffee, and continues throughout the day. This bun with milk, flour, sugar, eggs and orange blossom water can be served filled with whipped cream, vanilla cream, truffles, marzipan and chocolate, and usually has sugar, candied fruits and nuts on top. The special thing about this dessert is that hidden inside there is a figurine and a dry bean: he who finds the figurine in his piece of roulade will be lucky for the whole year, he who finds the bean, however, will have to pay for the roulade. Th -
Wineries in the rocks of Borja
Borja is a small town in the province of Zaragoza with a huge wine tradition. The difference with other areas of vineyards lies in the peculiarity of its first winery, built centuries ago in the rock of the hills. 19th-century Borjan traders served from within the mountain and their offices were converted over time into family residences and holiday homes. In any case, wine remains a benchmark in the Campo de Borja region and the Moncayo, its neighbour. It is true that a few months ago the region’s, and the world’s, attention was drawn to the controversial restoration of the church’s Ecce Homo by a lady with the priest’s agreement. However, the world -
Mahon and mayonnaise
Take oil, egg yolks, vinegar and salt. Break the eggs and place the yolks in a bowl, add a little vinegar and salt. Proceed to beat well, steadily, and when you see that it is stiffening, pour the oil in a very thin jet to produce the emulsion and the mayonnaise. This is the simple recipe for the manual preparation of one of the sauces most used in the world and whose origin has been a major headache for scholars of these things since the early twentieth century. The prevailing theory on the origin of mayonnaise has one cardinal year: 1756. At that time France invades the port of Mahon, on Minorca, and the then Duke of Richilie, Louis François Armand du P -
The only stew without chickpeas
It takes energy to go for a stroll in the country, and a lot more so if it is in the mountains of the Picos de Europa. If there is one right dish to load us up with energy for trotting off into the mountains it is stew, which consists of a saucepan with water in which meat, delicatessen, vegetables and other additions are cooked together. Present in the indifferent Spanish culinary traditions, the variety from Cantabria is the only one in Spain that does not use chickpeas. Mountain stew, a very appropriate name for the region, is an inland dish, rich and very sturdy. According to the organisers of the seventh edition of the Cantabria Week of Gastronomic Products, the -
100% Galician Pork
The Galician company Coren, known for its chickens, had an idea for his pigs. Seeking to recover the traditions more deeply rooted 'no terruño', Coren thought he could make a product half way between the whitest pig and the most refined Iberian. This meat, nicknamed Selecta, has already made the leap and is being marketed in Japan. This new line has three basic premises: a selected breed, a natural diet based on chestnuts and a traditional farming method. These ideas combined result in a juicy meat that recovers its flavour 'da terra'. This Galician pig raising takes about five months. During the first three, they are fed a lot of grain and feed, rich in v -
How to cook farmed snails
Snails are animals that move very slowly by stretching and contracting their bodies. With their shells on their backs, they have formed part of Spanish cuisine since the time when the peninsula was a Roman province called Hispania. Known as the ‘oyster of the land’, the perfect place to breed these members of the ‘Helix’ family is the Mediterranean basin of the Iberian peninsula, thanks to the high lime content of the land. Lucky to have this wealth of the lime in the Mediterranean lands and aware that these animals are exquisite to many palates, several entrepreneurs have been engaged for years in creating farming operations which, instead of cows, -
The unforgettable taste of Sherry
That sherry is one of the best wines in the world is clear even to the Japanese. This is the defence of the prestigious journalist Yoshiko Akehi, a specialist in Spanish wines, who has given in to the charms of this particular wine from Jerez. Its taste and its aged aroma, universally appreciated, are the fruit of gifted lands in the Andalusian provinces of Cadiz and Seville. The climate of the area is the great ally in making this liquid miracle behind which there is exhaustive work in a millenary legacy. The well-known Marco de Jerez (frame of Jerez) is a privileged geographical Triangle where excellent wines and brandies have their origin. From these, a whole tourist r -
Don’t be given it with cheese... or maybe you should
"Que no te la den con queso" (Don’t be given it with cheese) is a very popular Spanish expression that warns us against lying. It roughly translates to "not be fooled" and comes from a trick that winemakers formerly used when they wanted to sell a poor quality wine to merchants. The trick was to serve them a slice of cheese before they tried the wine to hide its defects. In fact, finding harmony between wine and cheese is difficult but not impossible, and what before had a negative connotation, has now become compulsory for all gourmets. Today, many books and specialized courses teach us how to correctly combine cheeses and wines. This is pairing, th -
The enjoyment of wine without a single sip
La Rioja may be known for many things, but if something takes the biscuit in this northern community of Spain it is wine. So when the French in Bordeaux invented beauty therapies using the liquid of the god Bacchus as the main element, La Rioja decided that they could also jump on the bandwagon of treatments featuring wine. Wine therapy is based on the antioxidant properties of wine and polyphenols, molecules with the ability to neutralize free radicals. These are responsible for cell oxidation, i.e. aging. So the idea is that skin application of the best Riojas can prevent growing older as much as delighting the palate. A good treatment in this new technique should start with c -
In search of red gold
Since the ninth century, the fields of La Mancha have grown one of the most valuable spices on the planet, saffron rose, a humble flower but one of great flavour. It is not its striking violet colour, but rather it is red stems that are used in a multitude of macerations of Spanish gastronomy, such as the famous pincho moruno or paella. Saffron fashion is a centenary tradition. In October, whoever might go to La Solana (Ciudad Real, a few kilometres from Madrid) or Consuegra (very close to Toledo), will see women sitting at their tables in the streets separating the stems from the leaves while pleasantly chatting. It is a laborious process that justifies the name of “red gold&rd -
Where do tapas come from?
Few things are as peculiar to Spain as the concept of tapa. This distinct item of Spanish gastronomy has been exported to the rest of humanity and finds literary references in texts by Quevedo, for whom they are “avisillos”, or Cervantes, who refers to ‘tapas’ as “llamativos”. And just like everything that is good, many lay claim to its authorship. From the primitive custom of accompanying alcoholic drinks with ‘something’ to eat to mitigate its effects, supposedly promoted by Alfonso X, the Wise, to the fact that they say that the country workers used it to prevent the flies from landing in their drink. But the most widespread of the t -
Navarre’s black diamonds
In Navarre there are diamonds. They are rugged, not too big and dark. They hide underground, about a foot below the ground. They grow naturally in the Sierra de Lokiz with the scientific name of Tuber melanosporum and you get to pay up to 1,000 Euros a kilo. No wonder it is considered a jewel of Spanish cuisine. If you do not know what we mean, ask someone who enjoys good food and read on. To enjoy it you have to know it, know that it is an unbeatable condiment, but not necessarily an unaffordable luxury, that its presence enriches all kinds of recipes, from haute cuisine to homemade, but that is not consistent with any ingredient. We are talking about black truffles. This good -
“Salmorejo” from Cordoba
Bread, tomato, garlic, olive oil, salt and, depending on the acidity of the tomatoes and the cook’s taste, a little vinegar. Salmorejo is one of the most representative dishes of Cordoba cuisine. So much so that no bar, tavern, or restaurant or house in Cordoba fails to serve this cold cream, perfect for the Andalusian hot summers, accompanied by traditional egg chips, diced ham and croutons. According to Almudena Villegas, a historian, expert in nutrition and dietetics and a member of the Spanish Royal Academy of Gastronomy, the origins of this dish could be traced back to the Neolithic or even the Paleolithic. More than the tomato, which was brought into the recipe only -
The gourmet salt collected with the Moon
There are all kinds of legends about salt. Some say that where there is salt there is no shortage of money; others that sometimes it can scare the devil himself, and; there are even those who say it is a powerful amulet that once was used to protect livestock. Even today it is used to purify houses. No doubt it has a magical component, but if there is a sodium chloride has no need for the esoteric to be special it is the one with sea salt or ice salt, a rarity of very high quality that you can only collect when the sun goes down and the crystals form that make it so unique. The bays of Cádiz and Huelva are two of those special places where the salt seems to have been petrifi -
The most popular spell in Spain
Spain is magic, but not only in a figurative sense. In the 21st-century there is a spell that is still being cast in Galicia: “Mouchos, coruxas, sapos e bruxas”. These words give us the most popular spell in Spain which is cast before the fire of a spirit-based drink: queimada. Many speak of its Celtic roots, and everybody attributes it healing properties, but the fact is that the form and ritual of queimada is much more recent. In the 1950s in Galicia it was very common to wash down dinners with spirits. Variants were gradually brought in, such as sugar and coffee beans. The mystic component came in with the burning of the drink and the blue flames inspired different ver -
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Haute cuisine in miniature
Very brave you have to be to compete with your culinary skills in a region of good eating and good drinking like Valladolid. For a few days in November, the Castilian capital further enhances its offer with the best of haute cuisine in miniature, as the centre for the National Competition of Kebabs and Bites, receiving only the most talented and imaginative. People able to recreate the planet Mars with egg dumplings and mushrooms or dress a vertical salad. The flavours in Spain (and the rest of the planet) concentrate in one place. Professionals come from around the country who usually serve in their bars. Besides choosing three winners, the best concept is valued, the most avant-gar -
The ritual of splitting a pig without a knife
If you go to Segovia (Castilla y León) and go into one of the many recommendable restaurants and hear a plate smashing on the floor, don’t worry. Contrary to what you might think, the noise is synonymous with the fact that you have just found excellent service. In Segovia, when you sit at the table, the ritual is almost as important as the raw material. One cannot and must not visit the city famed for its Roman aqueduct without going to have one of its famous ‘cochinillos’, the name given to the suckling pig, that is, an animal that has only fed on its mother’s milk and is no more than three weeks old. In the splitting ceremony, in -
Jabugo ham and its 20 flavours
They are not an actress’s or a model’s, nor a footballer’s. The most sought-after legs in Spain are those of salted pork, those universally known as ham, and of the numerous varieties found around Spain the most prestigious is Jabugo ham, a reference for the world’s gourmets. Those in the know say that the black pig that produces them is a direct descendent of the prehistoric wild boar and that the Romans were the first to praise its persistent, unmistakeable flavour. Whatever the case, Jabugo receives its name from the city of Huelva, which is the centre of its production, although it would be more suitable to talk about the Jamón -
Buying Rioja Wines
Want to buy a Spanish wine, but have no idea how to decipher the myriad of choices available? Spain's Rioja region wine labels ease the process by including the following two (2) markers: The DOCa" (Denominación de Origen Calificada) seal, which verifies that the wine meets the stringent qualification necessary to be labeled an authentic Rioja wine. The Rioja Classification label, four (4) different colored labels describing the expected level and method of aging in barrels/bottles: Joven or Cosecha (Green Label): Typically young wines 1-2 years old, focused on freshness and fruitiness. Also occasionally used to describe wines outside the other three wine categories. Easy- -
Hot spirituality and the birthplace of literates
“Peppers from Padrón, some are hot and others are not”. This lapidary phrase is how the Galicians resolve the mystery concerning whether the green fruit that is born in the village of Herbón, in the province of La Coruña (Galicia), will make us curse or delight us with its unmistakable flavour. Peppers from Padrón are small, tender, are eaten fried, dressed with coarse salt and there is no way to know whether the one we have in our fingers is mild or hot. The origin of this vegetable lies in the Mesoamerica and it seems that it is a distant relative of the chilli bean. But when it reached the damp lands of Galicia it shrank, i -